BIO 111L Field Trip to the Jemez Mountains

[Expanded View of Satellite Image]

[Questions] [Selected Flora & Fauna]

We will drive north from Albuquerque on I 25, exiting at the second Bernalillo exit, marked Rt 44. Turn left at this exit toward Bernalillo and Farmington. (A right turn would take you to Placitas and Las Huertas which we will visit on another trip.) Continue on Rt. 44, one of New Mexico's most deadly highways, to San Ysidro, 24 miles. From this route you can easily see the two distinct parts of the Jemez Mountains. On the left is the Nacimiento Uplift, a ridge of sedimentary rock built in the Cretaceous period, beginning more than 65 million years ago. The Nacimiento Mountains represent one of the two southern tips of the Rockies. The other is the end of the Sangre de Cristos near Santa Fe. To the right of the Nacimientos are the mountains of the ancient Jemez volcano, which erupted and collapsed about one million years ago. Look for these two distinct areas on the satellite image on the previous page.

As you approach San Ysidro look to your left at the white cliffs with a road snaking up the side. This is White Mesa. Mining operations tap the abundant gypsum in these rocks. But explorations on the mesa have also uncovered numerous dinosaur remains. Around 1980 the bones from Camarasaurus were excavated from Jurassic rocks on the mesa. More recently Seismosaurus has also been discovered. Specimens from these animals can be seen at the New Mexico Museum of Natural History, site of a later lab visit. [See NMMNH fieldtrip].

San Ysidro is also the site of a well-known speed trap (35 MPH), so watch your speed as you pass north through this community into the Jemez valley. Notice the abundant tamarisk growing in the shallow arroyos. [for description see Rio Grande Bosque field trip]. The valley gradually narrows as you proceed to Jemez Pueblo and then the small settlement of Canon. You will pass the turnoff to Forest Rd. 10 which leads to the town of Ponderosa, and just afterward the stunning scenery of red rock Triassic sandstone. The riverbottom is populated with Fremont cottonwood which turns a brilliant gold in October. Look for (but pass) the turnoff to Guadelupe Canyon (SR 485). This road is very scenic as it passes through several old tunnels created originally for a narrow gage rail line. The road continues up into the Nacimiento mountains as FR 376, connecting to FR 126. This makes a nice return route if you have the time and a suitable vehicle.

Jemez Springs is another community which enforces its 25 MPH speed zone. There's a lot of pedestrian traffic between the small inns and distinctive restaurants. Numerous hot springs dot the valley from here on up into mountains. After Jemez Springs you'll pass the Forest Service Ranger Station and then Soda Dam. Still enlarging, the dam developed where hot-spring water cooled and precipitated calcium carbonate (not sodium bicarbonate as its name suggests). Another mile or so and you'll reach our fist stop, (1) on the map, the Battleship Rock Picnic Area. Turn off to the right into the picnic area. We will make a "pit stop" here and gather leaf packets for our study of aquatic insect diversity. [see Aquatic Insects]. NOTE: There is a parking fee of $2 per car. The cliffs in this area are topped with volcanic tuff, compressed volcanic ash, and you can see "tent rocks" formed of this tuff on the high canyon walls across the road from the picnic area. These tent rocks represent cones of hardened ash surrounding the escape route for volcanic fumes. The vegetation in this area consists mostly of ponderosa pines with a few Douglas fir and rocky mountain juniper. Willows and birch occupy the riparian area along the river. You're likely to see stellar's jays in the picnic area and along Forest Trail 137 which leads from the picnic area up Jemez Canyon, passing a popular hot springs, to Jemez Falls and then to the box canyon where we will be stopping next. This trail makes a nice day hike by using a vehicle shuttle to the upper end and walking down, about 9 miles from the box canyon to the picnic area.

From Battleship Rock continue your drive up Rt. 4. Keep right on SR 4 at the junction with FR 126 and continue another 6 miles or so until you come to the 2^nd sign for the East Fork Trail (2). This occurs at the bottom of a steep hill in a scenic canyon. Slow down in anticipation and park in the small gravel area on your left, or along the roadside. DO NOT BLOCK the gate or driveway on the south side of the road. We will walk a short distance in at first to set up our base for doing water tests, taking soil samples, and leaving the leaf packet we gathered to collect aquatic insects for later study. After lunch we will walk further in to the canyon, about 2 miles round trip. We will stop in a small meadow area to do a diversity count. During this walk you should make the observations you need to do your habitat assessment. Look for birds such as the great horned owl, red tailed hawks, ravens, and the diminutive dipper. Mammals include muskrats, chipmunks and ground squirrels. Deer or elk are occasionally seen, and black bear have been found foraging on the abundant rose hips and berries. Willows and birch continue along the riverbanks with upland trees of ponderosa pine, Douglas fir, and white fir. Shrubs and wildflowers cover the flat alluvial meadows. Included are wild rose, five-leafed cinquefoil, yarrow, false strawberry and many others.

After leaving the East Fork area we will make a brief stop about 3 miles down Rt. 4 at a viewpoint of the Valle Grande (3), a remnant of the ancient Valles Caldera, the crater of the original Jemez volcano. What you see is less than 1/4 of the full caldera which stretches for 14 miles from rim to rim. Until the Jemez river broke through the rim to drain the caldera this was the site of a huge "crater lake". It still is an important part of the Jemez plumbing system, collecting water from rain and snow and allowing it to slowly percolate through the underground channels and exposing it to rocks hot from nearby magma. This water then reappears at the surface as hot springs such as those mentioned earlier. At the present time negotiations are still going on to purchase the Valle Grande and include it in the National Recreation Area.

In this trip like no other we may go on (except possibly a drive to Sandia Crest) can you experience the changes in the biological community as you pass from one biome to another and from one climate zone to another. As you climb west out of the Rio Grande Rift you will enter the biome of the Colorado Plateau. The plateau is dotted with sagebrush and cholla cactus, with interspersed grasses and snakeweed. As you climb into the Canyon you experience the changing character of the riparian zone (alongside the river) and the climate zones determined by altitude. From the desert scrub you enter the pinyon-juniper zone, then as you climb to nearly 7000 feet the ponderosa pines appear, and finally at 8500' or so the spruce and the fir. [See Life Zones of Southwestern Mountains]

Selected Flora and Fauna

Douglas fir Pseudotsuga menziesii, Not a true fir [see Tree Finder] common from the Southwest to the Pacific Northwest, hybrid varieties are the most common tree used in plantation forests. [description]

blue spruce Picea pungens, is a medium sized tree, 80-100' tall, 1-2' diameter. Occurs on mountain slopes in Rockies, generally near streams. Also used extensively as an ornamental and as Christmas trees.

ponderosa pine Pinus ponderosa, This tree produces more lumber than any other American tree; grows to 150' tall, 3-4' diameter, 300 to 500 yrs. Bark has an odor of vanilla.6500 to 8500'

gambel oak Querqus gambelii, Found in about the same zone as the ponderosa pine, has the classic white oak lobed leaf.
Deciduous leaves turn yellow to orange in fall.

willows: Arroyo willow, salix interior, Lancelot generally smooth margined leaves. Found in lower elevations along drainages.
Bebb willow, salix bebbiana, The most common willow in the higher elevations from Alaska to the East Coast. Willow bark contains salicin, a pain killer, which can be extracted and used medicinally.

aspen Quaking aspen, Populus tremuloides, Found at elevations above 7000' and along streams, an early successional tree which recovers quickly after fire and other disturbance. One of the most beautiful and recognizable trees of the Rockies.

birch and alder: Arizona alder, Alnus oblongifolia - common along streams.
water birch, Betula occidentalis, treelike or shrubby along rivers.

shrubby cinquefoil Potentilla fruticosa, In the rose family, this medium sized shrub dots the alluvium along the Jemez river. Showy golden yellow rose like flowers appear in June

other shrubs and wildflowers wild rose, yarrow, yellow coneflower, wild strawberry, nodding blue bells, flea bane, New Mexico locust, and many others.

currant and gooseberry: Currants differ from gooseberries in that they have no spines on their fruits or stems. The word currant comes from Middle English raison of Coraunte (raisin of Corinth) from the Greek port where currants were first introduced. Both have edible, though tasteless, berries.

red tailed hawk Buteo jamaicensis, Commonly seen soaring in search of prey.

great horned owl Bubo virginianus, Seen on the high ledges in the early morning or late afternoon and on cloudy days.

American dipper
Cinclus mexicanus, Common along streams in the West, bobs up and down, walks under water, eats aquatic insects and small fish.

Stellar's jay
Cyanocitta stellerie, is the common crested jay in and west of the Rockies. Has raucous call and, like many jays, hangs around picnic and camp sites.

common raven Corvus corax. Soars above the canyon. Larger and more solitary than crows and eats more carrion.

muskrat Ondatra zibethicus, Large (Wt. 1.25 - 4 lb.) volelike rodent, lives in lodges similar to beavers, eat aquatic vegetation.

voles Mountain vole, Microtus montanus. These small rodents are responsible for the earthen tunnels and mounds one finds in mountain meadows. They live in runway and burrow systems under grassy cover, eating grasses, leafy plants, and some fungi. The "casts" that are seen above ground occur when tunnels just below the surface are subjected to a quick frost which hardens the earth.

chipmunk Least and Colorado chipmunks. Chipmunks can be differentiated from ground squirrels by their eye stripes, which are absent in the squirrels.

squirrels Abert's (have long ear tufts), red and rock squirrels, golden mantled ground squirrel (has body stripe like a chipmunk but no eye stripe.

reptiles and amphibians

Jemez Mountain Salamander: Plethodon neomexicanus,
Lays eggs in moist, sheltered spots such as rotting logs. Respiration through moist skin and mucous membranes.
Brown, 2 to 3 ". Protected.
Tiger Salamander, Ambystoma tigrinum, (see specimen in lab), larvae have external gills, active following rains.
Northern Leopard Frog, Rana pipiens, Green to brown with darker spots, common in meadows, bogs, marshes and streams throughout North America.
Short Horned Lizard, (seen at left - Click on photo for enlarged view) Phrynosoma douglassii, Common throughout most of the lessarid regions of New Mexico. Variable coloration, bears up to 36 young from mid to late summer.
Western Terrestrial Garter Snake, (Thamnophis elegans) Found in and around water, but may wander far from it. Eats a variety of foods, from small mammals, insects, even carrion to aquatic creatures such as salamanders and small fish.

Questions:

1) Much of the area visited in the Jemez mountains is part of a National Recreation Area. Does this adequately protect the area from adverse impact.

2) What impacts of man did you observe? What other impacts are there that you did not actually observe?

3) Do you think the Valle Grande should be purchased and included in the NRA? Why?

	[Expanded View of Satellite Image]
[Questions]	[Selected Flora & Fauna]

Selected Flora and Fauna
Douglas fir	Pseudotsuga menziesii, Not a true fir [see Tree Finder] common from the Southwest to the Pacific Northwest, hybrid varieties are the most common tree used in plantation forests. [description]
blue spruce	Picea pungens, is a medium sized tree, 80-100' tall, 1-2' diameter. Occurs on mountain slopes in Rockies, generally near streams. Also used extensively as an ornamental and as Christmas trees.
ponderosa pine	Pinus ponderosa, This tree produces more lumber than any other American tree; grows to 150' tall, 3-4' diameter, 300 to 500 yrs. Bark has an odor of vanilla.6500 to 8500'
gambel oak	Querqus gambelii, Found in about the same zone as the ponderosa pine, has the classic white oak lobed leaf. Deciduous leaves turn yellow to orange in fall.
willows:	Arroyo willow, salix interior, Lancelot generally smooth margined leaves. Found in lower elevations along drainages. Bebb willow, salix bebbiana, The most common willow in the higher elevations from Alaska to the East Coast. Willow bark contains salicin, a pain killer, which can be extracted and used medicinally.
aspen	Quaking aspen, Populus tremuloides, Found at elevations above 7000' and along streams, an early successional tree which recovers quickly after fire and other disturbance. One of the most beautiful and recognizable trees of the Rockies.
birch and alder:	Arizona alder, Alnus oblongifolia - common along streams. water birch, Betula occidentalis, treelike or shrubby along rivers.
shrubby cinquefoil	Potentilla fruticosa, In the rose family, this medium sized shrub dots the alluvium along the Jemez river. Showy golden yellow rose like flowers appear in June
other shrubs and wildflowers	wild rose, yarrow, yellow coneflower, wild strawberry, nodding blue bells, flea bane, New Mexico locust, and many others.
currant and gooseberry:	Currants differ from gooseberries in that they have no spines on their fruits or stems. The word currant comes from Middle English raison of Coraunte (raisin of Corinth) from the Greek port where currants were first introduced. Both have edible, though tasteless, berries.
red tailed hawk	Buteo jamaicensis, Commonly seen soaring in search of prey.
great horned owl	Bubo virginianus, Seen on the high ledges in the early morning or late afternoon and on cloudy days.
American dipper	Cinclus mexicanus, Common along streams in the West, bobs up and down, walks under water, eats aquatic insects and small fish.
Stellar's jay	Cyanocitta stellerie, is the common crested jay in and west of the Rockies. Has raucous call and, like many jays, hangs around picnic and camp sites.
common raven	Corvus corax. Soars above the canyon. Larger and more solitary than crows and eats more carrion.
muskrat	Ondatra zibethicus, Large (Wt. 1.25 - 4 lb.) volelike rodent, lives in lodges similar to beavers, eat aquatic vegetation.
voles	Mountain vole, Microtus montanus. These small rodents are responsible for the earthen tunnels and mounds one finds in mountain meadows. They live in runway and burrow systems under grassy cover, eating grasses, leafy plants, and some fungi. The "casts" that are seen above ground occur when tunnels just below the surface are subjected to a quick frost which hardens the earth.
chipmunk	Least and Colorado chipmunks. Chipmunks can be differentiated from ground squirrels by their eye stripes, which are absent in the squirrels.
squirrels	Abert's (have long ear tufts), red and rock squirrels, golden mantled ground squirrel (has body stripe like a chipmunk but no eye stripe.
reptiles and amphibians	Jemez Mountain Salamander: Plethodon neomexicanus, Lays eggs in moist, sheltered spots such as rotting logs. Respiration through moist skin and mucous membranes. Brown, 2 to 3 ". Protected. Tiger Salamander, Ambystoma tigrinum, (see specimen in lab), larvae have external gills, active following rains. Northern Leopard Frog, Rana pipiens, Green to brown with darker spots, common in meadows, bogs, marshes and streams throughout North America. Short Horned Lizard, (seen at left - Click on photo for enlarged view) Phrynosoma douglassii, Common throughout most of the lessarid regions of New Mexico. Variable coloration, bears up to 36 young from mid to late summer. Western Terrestrial Garter Snake, (Thamnophis elegans) Found in and around water, but may wander far from it. Eats a variety of foods, from small mammals, insects, even carrion to aquatic creatures such as salamanders and small fish.